Zenith Carb Rebuild part 4

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Page 1: Remove the carb

Page 2: Disassemble the carb

Page 3: Reassemble the carb

Page 4: Reinstall the carb

NOTE: This installation is specifically for the carb nearest the firewall. I don't have a similar list for the forward carb, since it was much simpler to get at. All the items to install for the carb are the same, and there were fewer ancillary things to move around to get good access.

Things you will need
  • Towels to put over the fender walls so you don't get 'em all greasy!
  • A knife or razor to cut off all the duct tape you used for labeling prior to disassembly.
  • Screwdrivers for all the hard-to-reach airplane clamps (I used about 4 different lentghs of shaft, but all were straight bit).
  • Spare airplane clamps for the old-style BMW ones that you want to replace.
  • An adjustable wrench for the battery terminal and air filter housing bolts. No one knows what size these may be on your car :^)
  • All the small 13mm tools you can find for the carb-manifold nuts.
  • Some 10mm tools (wrench, sockets and ratchet, you know the drill)

 

Reattaching the carb body to the manifold
1
   Make sure you have a gasket installed between the manifold and the base of the carb.
2
   Get your newly rebuilt carb and set it down on the manifold studs through the bottom.
3
   Get the four lockwashers and nuts for the studs and all the small 13mm tools you have.
4
   Install the four lockwashers and nuts. Curse vociferously. This is one of those steps that will take a while. The nuts are all blind, and most of them are really hard to reach.

 

Reinstalling all the stuff that attaches to the carb
5
   Unplug and connect the automatic choke water lines. Note that the "inner" (closer to the head) line goes to the forward carb, while the "outer" (further from head) goes to the block.
6
   Connect the vacuum line which leaves the carb base parallel to the #4 cylinder intake manifold pipe.
7
   Connect the carb linkage at the ball-and-socket joint.
8
   Connect the wire to the automatic choke.
9
   Connect the vacuum line to the base of the carb on the drivers' side. It is connected to a "T" with the dashpot mounted on the firewall on the drivers' side (white vacuum line) and the middle of the 3 dashpots on the passengers' side of the firewall.
10
   Connect the vacuum line to the rear intake manifold (on the drivers' side). It is connected to a "T" with the vacuum line to the base of the front carb and to the canister that lives below the battery.
11
   Connect the evaporative line to the bottom of the carb inlet block.
12   Connect the fuel inlet hose to the side of the carb inlet block.
13   NOTE: Before you continue, take a good last look at all your hoses and wiring. Once you install the air filter housing, you won't be able to see most of this.

 

Reinstalling the stuff you disconnected to give you access to the carb
14
   Install the radiator overflow tank.
15
   Reattach the large hose to it from the block.
16
   Install the dashpot on the drivers side firewall. Two screws hold it to the firewall. It's got a few vacuum lines going to the set of 3 dashpots on the passenger side firewall.
17
   Connect the wire to the front carb connector which goes to the shutoff valve
18   Connect the wire to the front carb automatic choke.
19   Connect the ground wire from this wiring harness to the firewall in the center of the car.
20   Connect the wires to the back-of-the-head sensor according to the labels. One attaches to the center of the sensor, the other attaches to the side of the sensor.

 

Reattaching the air filter housing, other last steps
21
   Install the air filter housing and attach the PCV and inlet air hoses.
22
   Install the two nuts on top of the carbs which hold the air filter housing in place.
23
   Install the air filter housing cover.
24
   Reattach the negative battery terminal.

 

You are done installing the carb!

 

Done with the install? Go to the begining and read it all again!
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